Mitake. The name resonates with me somehow, reminding me of something I once lost but never knew, like the imprint of a false memory. Interestingly, there’s another place in Japan, way up north, that also possesses this quality, but I’ll get to that in another post some time. You’ll just have to subscribe, and wait mwahahaha.
But back to Mitake. It’s in that far Western region of Tokyo that everyone always marvels at for being so rustic. I guess that marveling is well deserved - it is quite rural - but I sorta cringe at that statement. That mode of thinking makes it sound like the only reason that Mitake’s rustic-ness is meaningful is in comparison to the city, like it wouldn’t have any reason to exist if it weren’t so directly juxtaposed to the glamor of the metropolis it resides in
And that’s just a bunch of hooey. Mitake, though quite isolated, stands on its own, which ought to be at least a little apparent due to its popularity with bouldering communities. On basically any given weekend, hordes of crag demons descend upon the Tama River gorge only about 5 minutes walking from Mitake Station, to scale something like 67 documented boulders of varying difficulty.
Honestly, it seems kinda weird to me that Mitake has stayed as rural as it has, considering its status as one of the pre-eminent bouldering spots for Tokyoites. And while bouldering is a sport for everyone, it does tend to attract those with cash to burn. So I guess that’s what endears me to the area - even in the face of considerable opportunity, it has chosen to stick to its roots. Said another way, Mitake is aggressively, stubbornly rural. And there’s something charming about that.
The Accommodation: Yaokyu
There are a number of guest houses and a few ryokan in the general area, and I’ve explored some of them, but once I found Yaokyu, I knew that I need not look anywhere else. Close to the station. Modern amenities. Reasonable pricing. Renovated akiya. Riverside. Lovely older couple that runs it. There’s not that much I can’t say I like about it. Even the cat is cool, and while I don’t dislike cats, I can’t really wrap my head around owning one unless you have a pest problem.
Oh, and their breakfast is dy-no-mite. Great pickles. Fresh eggs. I wish they’d opt for some local river fish, though.
The Experience: Bouldering
I only started bouldering last year, so its the newest addition to my roster of outdoor activities (camping! scuba! surfing! rope climbing! hiking! cycling!) that I’m not very good at, but quite like.
However, I think I need to clarify something: I’ve been to any number of bouldering gyms over the years, but these never impressed me very much. Once I got out to Mitake for the real deal, though, I quickly became a fan. You see, the difference between the metropolitan simulation of bouldering and the actual activity of navigating large rocks in the wild is quite different.
And Mitake is the place to get that intro. Head out, rent some shoes, a crash pad, and a helmet, and get climbing.
The Restaurant: Amanoya (天野屋)
Google Maps tells me there are other restaurants around Mitake, but I’ve never been to any of them but Amanoya, which doesn’t even show up on Google Maps unless you really look for it. That, to me anyway, is always an indicator of something interesting.
Of course, that’s not how I found the place. Hell, I didn’t even walk by it and just think, “neat!” Rather, I got a recommendation from the owners of Yaokyu, and having no reason to not trust them, acted on it.
Amanoya’s specialty (as seemingly every restaurant in Japan must have) is heavily garlic’d fried pork aka tonkatsu, which is indeed quite nice, but so is the rest of their menu. Just go in, sit down at the bar, order a bunch of skewers and a drink, and let loose. Awesome spot, totally love it.
Now Get Out There!
Follow the above steps for a great time. Really. One thing I’ve noticed about the combination of people and Japan over the years is that rarely does anyone hold anyone else’s hand. Usually they’ll just say, “Kyoto is great. You should go.” and leave it at that.
That doesn’t help anyone, and it’s even a little sad because it isn’t hard at all to help someone have a good time, here or anywhere else. What do you need? Well, the above (accommodation, restaurant, experience) is an excellent place to start, and once you do, its off to the races.
There’s so much to discover outside of the confines of the city, often they remain undiscovered simply because those would-be travelers can’t take their first step due to lack of resources. Which is to say, this is your resource now go do something with it! Or, if you have questions or concerns, bring them up in the chat!