Kawazu. A quiet, quaint town near the southern tip of the Izu Peninsula. Often overshadowed by its neighbor, Shimoda. There’s a word in Japanese that is often cited as one of the more difficult to translate ones, 渋い (shibui), and Kawazu encapsulates my understanding of that mysterious word perfectly. Low key, sophisticated, like leather and cigar smoke and whiskey and Jazz, but distinctly Japanese.
I was a bit… mentally kerfluflled… when writing this, as Kawazu, while by no means particularly well-known, has a pretty strong PR game promoting very specific experiences. There’s the cherry blossom river, and the waterfalls, and the onsen, and the ryokan, all of which are nice, but to only speak to that without making note of other experiences, some of which are more modern, would do the place a disservice.
I began exploring the area following those promotions, and enjoyed them, but as I was doing so I also came across a much more dynamic landscape than they let on. And this is an issue - I’m hesitant to say problem, outright - across much of Japan and is, I think, probably a subconscious intent of mine in publishing these itineraries. There’s great stuff across the entire nation of Japan, some of which are supported by business or government, but the vast majority of which are left to their own devices.
Which is to say, Kawazu is really nice, in the ways that are publicly stated as well as the more secret ones.
The Accommodation: Tiny Base River House
One of the first times I was exploring Kawazu I was looking for a place to stay with my girlfriend during the cherry blossom season and came across this place. Right up my alley (and her’s, fortunately!): a charming, renovated akiya right next to the river, which is to say right next to the sakura fireworks that skirt the waterline.
Even better, it’s equipped with a grilling station, projector display, and ample space for relaxation that’s also cordoned off from the public. Super great spot to base yourself for adventures to come.
The Restaurant: Delmonico’s
While I opted to mention River House due to its modernity and innovative approach to the business, there is a ryokan I highly recommend (and will disclose information regarding to those who message me about it!) which I stumbled across on another adventure in Kawazu at which I’ve stayed and which led me to discover this place.
I’ve stopped in at Delmonico’s a few times, and to date its still one of my favorite discoveries in cuisine, and also a great remote work spot. Super local, immaculately prepared, reasonably priced, and without frills, Delmonico’s is the kind of restaurant I hope to come across wherever I go.
Experience II: Nanadaru 7 Waterfalls
I usually try to not feature typical experiences on this newsletter, for a bunch of reasons but at least partly because its just really easy to do that and also because there are so many travel journals out there which all list the same places while trying to brand whatever it is as unique or mysterious.
Kawazu’s Nanadaru is one of those places - as are the riverside cherry trees - but in this case I think the hype, if you can call it that, is well deserved. One of the things I really like about Kawazu is how unassuming the place is. It’s an extremely natural environ, totally comfortable with itself, and these 7 waterfalls, and the hike that accompanies visiting them, is a really great way to drink in that relaxed nature.
Now All You Have To Do Is Go!
Kawazu’s a pretty unique place in my humble opinion. I mean, like, anywhere you go in Japan is gonna be, you know, Japanese, but Kawazu’s got a particular strong and idiosyncratic notion of what that even means. I don’t think I’d use the word exciting to describe it, because it really is just so peaceful, but there are many types of adventure in my book, not just the overdriven stuff.
So go check it out. You’ll enjoy it, unless you’re just not into new experiences, which would beg the question, why are you even reading this newsletter?